Portuguese Christmas Eve Tradition Centers on Salted Codfish, 'Bacalhau'

The Portuguese observance of Consoada on December 24th is defined by the consumption of codfish, known locally as 'bacalhau.' This deeply rooted custom originates in the Middle Ages, stemming from the Christian calendar's fasting requirements that mandated abstinence from meat before major holidays like Christmas and Easter. Salted and dried cod emerged as the primary celebratory dish because it offered an economically viable, preservable source of protein, effectively bypassing the logistical difficulties of transporting and storing fresh fish before modern refrigeration.

Portugal currently leads global cod consumption, accounting for 20 percent of the world's total catch, despite the fish not being native to its waters. While the tradition is now recognized nationally, its initial prominence was concentrated in the northern regions. Literary evidence, such as Ramalho Ortigão's 1882 publication 'Natal Minhoto,' documents cod preparations similar to 'Bacalhau à Provençal.' Conversely, other areas, including Alentejo and Funchal, historically favored meat-centric meals or 'canja,' a simple chicken broth, to conclude their fast after attending Midnight Mass.

The widespread adoption of cod as a national staple was largely cemented after the Second World War under the Estado Novo regime. António Oliveira Salazar, an economist, utilized the dish as a symbol reflecting the desired modesty of the populace and prioritized a consistent, affordable supply, elevating cod fishing to a protected industry. The regime celebrated the bravery of fishermen sailing to Newfoundland and Greenland as patriotic heroes, simultaneously exempting them from compulsory military service.

Linguist Marco Neves has offered a scholarly perspective on the etymology of 'bacalhau,' challenging the common belief of a direct link to the Basque word 'bakailao.' Neves asserts the term likely entered the language from Northern Europe, specifically the Netherlands, appearing in Dutch texts as early as the 12th century. This linguistic influence migrated to the Iberian Peninsula between the 16th and 17th centuries, with the earliest documented appearance in Basque occurring later, in the 17th century. Neves concludes that the tradition's Portuguese character is independent of the word's specific origin.

Historically, cod was introduced to Portugal, possibly by Vikings who air-dried the fish for sea voyages, with the Basques later enhancing preservation through salting. Salted cod evolved over centuries to become one of the most accessible animal proteins, earning the moniker 'the meat of the poor' and later 'the faithful friend' (o fiel amigo). Today, many Portuguese families adhere to the Christmas Eve custom, reserving meat consumption, such as turkey, for Christmas Day on the 25th. The word 'Consoada' itself derives from the Latin 'consolata,' meaning 'comfort,' which reflects the feeling associated with this essential meal, often prepared as 'Bacalhau com Todos' (Codfish with everything), including cabbage, potatoes, and eggs.