Study: Traditional fast fashion giants lead in global textile waste production

A recent field study conducted across thirty textile recycling centers has revealed significant data on industry waste streams. The analysis found that 49% of textiles deemed unfit for reuse originate from established fast-fashion retailers such as Zara and H&M. Secondary market analysis further confirms the dominance of these legacy players. For instance, one popular resale platform lists 61.8 million items from Zara and 59.7 million from H&M, compared to 21.8 million items from Shein. The sheer volume available on resale platforms suggests that while consumers purchase these items in massive quantities, their consumer appeal is remarkably short-lived. Meanwhile, ultra-fast fashion operators—primarily Chinese companies like Shein and Temu—account for only 5% of the waste volume identified in secondary sales channels. This discrepancy demonstrates that the volume of waste from first-generation fast-fashion brands in the analyzed secondhand channels is twelve times higher than that of their ultra-fast competitors. Consequently, while Chinese ultra-fast brands have used algorithms and digital supply chains to shorten collection cycles to just 10–20 days, the study indicates that the sheer output of established market leaders remains the primary source of unusable waste.

These statistics challenge the current focus of public and regulatory discourse. An anti-fast-fashion bill has been under review by the Joint Committee since autumn 2025 following debates over its compliance with European Union standards. The EU ban on destroying unsold clothing, effective July 19, 2026, is designed to compel major corporations to seek sustainable alternatives like recycling or reuse rather than incineration or landfilling. The Italian Senate recently approved a bill introducing a two-euro levy on non-EU parcels valued at less than 150 euros, specifically targeting Shein and Temu. However, advocacy groups argue that focusing political attention solely on these newer online players serves as a distraction from the broader issue of overproduction across the entire sector. They maintain that the artificial distinction between traditional fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion is insufficient to address the crisis effectively, and focusing on new entrants risks overlooking the more substantial contribution to waste from established giants.

Environmental activists stress the urgent need for comprehensive regulation across the entire industry segment to curb ongoing environmental and social impacts. The fashion industry as a whole is responsible for 8–10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, exceeding the combined footprint of aviation and shipping. This underscores the fact that achieving true circularity and reducing the ecological footprint requires a holistic approach addressing the entire production chain rather than just its newest links.