Alessandro Michele’s Second Valentino Alta Moda Collection: A Poignant Tribute to the Legacy of Valentino Garavani

During the Spring/Summer 2026 Haute Couture Week in Paris, Alessandro Michele unveiled his second Alta Moda collection for Valentino, a presentation that resonated with profound emotional and historical significance. The event took place just days after the passing of the fashion house’s legendary founder, Valentino Garavani, an occurrence that sent ripples of mourning and reflection throughout the global fashion industry. In a moving letter released to accompany the show, Michele paid a heartfelt tribute to Garavani, characterizing him as a mythological figure whose influence remains evergreen. Michele observed that such a myth does not merely belong to the archives of the past; instead, it establishes a foundational language that continues to reveal and define the world today.

The presentation's atmosphere was defined by a meticulously crafted cinematic scenography that transported guests into a bygone era of visual discovery. Attendees were seated within a large-scale circular structure designed to replicate the Kaiserorama, a sophisticated 19th-century stereoscopic device that served as a vital precursor to modern cinema. This historical apparatus, originally invented by August Fuhrmann in the 1880s, offered a panoramic viewing experience that required guests to observe the collection through individual small eyepieces. By forcing a focused and uninterrupted contemplation of the intricate craftsmanship on display, Michele—who frequently identifies as an "archaeologist of art"—sought to intentionally slow down the viewer's gaze. This creative choice was a deliberate and philosophical reaction against the frantic pace and overwhelming information saturation that characterizes the contemporary digital age, demanding a return to slow, meditative observation.

The auditory landscape of the show was equally evocative, beginning with a rare audio recording of Valentino Garavani himself, in which the late couturier shared his earliest creative sparks. He specifically cited his lifelong fascination with the stars of the silent film era as a primary source of inspiration for his aesthetic vision. This nostalgic voiceover was layered over a complex soundscape that expertly blended driving techno beats with timeless classical compositions. The resulting contrast heightened the theatricality of the event, bridging the gap between the traditional roots of Haute Couture and the avant-garde, rhythmic sensibilities of the present day.

Michele’s design choices for this collection drew heavily from the opulent glamour of Hollywood’s Golden Age and the refined, geometric elegance of the Art Deco movement. These influences were vividly expressed in the sweeping, fluid drapery that graced the runway and the architectural precision of the sculptural collars. The designer utilized a palette of opulent materials, including rich, heavy faille and plush, light-absorbing velvet, to construct garments that felt both deeply historic and strikingly fresh. Furthermore, the collection found a spiritual anchor in the work of the poet Pier Paolo Pasolini, specifically his poignant metaphor of fireflies as symbols of enduring resilience. This poetic reference was masterfully translated into the physical realm through the application of delicate, intricate embroidery and the shimmering use of metallic threads that caught the light like the very insects they were meant to represent.

The exclusive and intimate nature of the viewing experience was shared by an array of high-profile guests who peered through the unique viewing portals to witness the artistry firsthand. Among the notable figures in attendance were actresses Dakota Johnson and Kirsten Dunst, as well as the acclaimed singer Tyla. These celebrities, like all other guests, were compelled to engage with the clothing in a singular, focused way, reinforcing Michele's vision of a more deliberate and personal connection to the medium of fashion, far removed from the typical runway spectacle.

Industry observers and critics noted that Michele successfully navigated the delicate task of honoring Valentino’s immense legacy while further establishing his own distinct visual vocabulary for the House. The collection was widely praised for its harmonious balance, seamlessly weaving together historical allusions with contemporary stylistic elements. By blending the past with the present so effectively, Michele demonstrated that the language of Valentino remains as vibrant and relevant as ever, ensuring that the founder's spirit continues to inform the brand's future trajectory while embracing a new era of creative expression.