Chanel's Métiers d’Art Show Takes a Trip Underground in New York City

On December 2, 2025, Chanel unveiled its Métiers d’Art 2025/2026 collection in a truly unconventional setting: a disused subway platform located on Bowery Street in New York City. Creative Director Mathieu Blazy selected this unique, subterranean venue for his first inter-seasonal collection presentation, aiming to underscore the democratic nature of the subway system—a place where social hierarchies dissolve.

The collection drew its inspiration from the diverse tapestry of New York City inhabitants across various decades, ranging from the Roaring Twenties figures to the sharp-witted journalists of the 1970s and the powerful businesswomen of the 1980s, even incorporating muses reminiscent of opera divas. In the accompanying notes for the exhibition, the designer articulated this vision, stating, "The New York subway belongs to everyone. It is utilized by all strata of society. You find students and revolutionaries, high-ranking officials and teenagers there. It is a space teeming with unexpected encounters and a collision of pop archetypes."

The runway presentation itself mirrored the environment. Models navigated the platform as if genuinely waiting for a train, occasionally feigning annoyance at delays or leaning against support pillars in anticipation. As the show progressed, the crowd of models thickened, culminating in a scene that convincingly simulated the packed conditions of a genuine rush hour on the platform.

Blazy showcased striking, expressive animal prints, notably executed using a novel hand-weaving technique applied to tweed fabrics. Furthermore, pieces that appeared to be standard denim were revealed to be crafted from silk, utilizing construction methods dating back to the 1920s. One particular tweed pattern was an exact replication of a poster for the 1931 film 'A Man of Tomorrow,' a project on which Coco Chanel herself collaborated. The collection also featured silk treated meticulously to mimic the texture of astrakhan fur. However, Blazy’s deployment of sophisticated techniques and masterful craftsmanship was not merely for aesthetic appeal; it served to narrate a story, signaling a clear reinterpretation of Chanel’s established codes.

Beyond the intricate detailing, the show highlighted a more relaxed iteration of 'casual chic.' This was exemplified by the inclusion of generously sized knitwear paired with wide-leg jeans, presenting a contemporary perspective on luxury ready-to-wear apparel.

As anticipated for such a high-profile event, the front row was graced by numerous A-list celebrities. Notable attendees included A$AP Rocky, Tilda Swinton, Ayo Edebiri, Rose Byrne, Kristen Stewart, Sofia Coppola, Lupita Nyong'o, Jessie Buckley, Margaret Qualley, Bowen Yang, and John Bon Jovi, among many others who came out to witness the presentation.