Dolce & Gabbana's Milan Fashion Week Showcase: A Fusion of Artistic Success and Diversity Controversies

On January 17, the fashion capital of Milan became the stage for Dolce & Gabbana’s highly anticipated Fall-Winter 2026–2027 menswear collection. Titled "Portrait of a Man," the show was conceptualized as a living gallery intended to celebrate the multifaceted nature of modern masculinity and individual identity.

However, as the models began to walk, the audience quickly noticed a glaring lack of representation that contradicted the theme's inclusive promise. The runway was populated exclusively by models of European descent, characterized by dark hair and similar features.

This casting choice, which entirely excluded Black and Asian models, sparked an immediate wave of indignation across social media and the fashion industry. Critics were quick to label the presentation as exclusionary, leading to renewed accusations of systemic racism against the Italian luxury house.

High-profile figures were not silent about the controversy, most notably supermodel Bella Hadid. She took a firm stance by calling for the brand to be canceled, describing the lack of diversity as "shameful" and unacceptable in the modern era.

Hadid’s public condemnation served as a reminder of the brand's checkered past, specifically referencing the 2018 incident involving offensive remarks about China. She also pointed to the 2013 tax evasion case and the 2015 controversy surrounding the designers' disparaging comments about IVF and non-traditional families.

Despite the intense social backlash, the physical production of the show was undeniably grand. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana curated a visual journey that explored a vast spectrum of styles, from Mediterranean romanticism to structured "bookish" traditionalism.

The designers successfully juxtaposed themes of raw, predatory sexuality with the grounded nature of rational pragmatism. This created a complex narrative through clothing that appealed to a wide range of high-fashion sensibilities and aesthetic preferences.

The sheer scale of the collection was impressive, consisting of 100 meticulously crafted looks. The runway featured a diverse array of garments, ranging from voluminous fur coats and textured cardigans to the sharp silhouettes of classic tuxedos.

The inclusion of high-end knitwear and modern sport-chic pieces demonstrated the brand's ability to blend luxury with contemporary lifestyle trends. This technical mastery remained evident even as the brand faced a significant social media firestorm regarding its casting decisions.

Ultimately, the Milan show highlighted the ongoing tension between Dolce & Gabbana’s creative prowess and their public image. While the 100-look collection was a testament to their design heritage, the controversy surrounding the casting has overshadowed the artistic achievement.

As the industry continues to evolve toward global inclusivity, the brand finds itself once again at a crossroads. The contrast between the show's stylistic diversity and its lack of ethnic representation remains a point of intense discussion among fashion critics and consumers alike.