Maria Grazia Chiuri Returns to Her Roots with a Visionary Debut at Fendi in Milan

Milan Fashion Week recently transformed into a historic stage for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s inaugural collection as the Creative Director of Fendi. This debut marks a poignant return to the Roman luxury house where Chiuri first began her professional journey in 1989. During those early years, she was a vital part of the accessories team and contributed significantly to the creation of the legendary Baguette bag, a piece that would go on to define an era of fashion. Having recently concluded a nearly ten-year tenure at Dior—a period marked by record-breaking financial success and a redefined brand identity—Chiuri now brings her seasoned expertise back to Fendi, focusing her creative lens on the seamless continuity of the brand's rich traditions.

For her first outing, Chiuri introduced a cohesive concept that merged men’s and women’s fashion under the powerful Italian mantra «Meno Io, Più Noi», which translates to «Less Me, More Us». This slogan was boldly inscribed across the runway at Fendi’s headquarters on Via Solari in Milan, serving as the ideological backbone of the show. The designer remarked that this theme is a deliberate celebration of Fendi’s unique matriarchal history, a legacy built by four generations of women starting with the visionary Adele Fendi and her five daughters. By emphasizing the collective intelligence of the atelier, Chiuri aimed to pay homage to the women who mentored her while simultaneously blurring the lines between gendered clothing categories.

The aesthetic direction of the collection emphasized meticulous craftsmanship and functional luxury, steering the brand away from the heavy use of monograms that has dominated recent seasons. The runway featured an array of exquisite silhouettes rendered in opulent fabrics like silk, velvet, and brocade. One of the most talked-about styling details was the use of contrasting, sharp white collars worn as necklaces, providing a modern edge to the sophisticated looks. The outerwear collection paid tribute to Fendi’s 1925 founding as a fur house, showcasing bombers and patchwork coats crafted from recycled fur, reflecting a commitment to sustainable luxury. Footwear also took a playful turn, with high socks paired with T-strap shoes and elegant slingbacks.

In a move to integrate contemporary art into the collection, Chiuri collaborated with the rising artist SAGG Napoli. This partnership yielded a series of expressive pieces, including T-shirts and football scarves featuring slogans like «Rooted but not stuck». This collaboration highlighted Chiuri's ability to blend high-fashion heritage with the pulse of modern youth culture, ensuring the brand remains relevant to a new generation of luxury consumers. The inclusion of these streetwear-inspired elements provided a sharp contrast to the more traditional, artisanal pieces seen elsewhere in the show.

The gravity of the event was reflected in the high-profile guest list, which featured a front row of cinema legends and industry titans. Notable attendees included Monica Bellucci, Uma Thurman, and Jessica Alba, all of whom gathered to witness Chiuri’s new vision. Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH, Fendi’s parent conglomerate, was also present, highlighting the strategic importance of this leadership transition. Furthermore, Silvia Venturini Fendi, who concluded her tenure as the house’s creative director last autumn, attended the show, offering a symbolic gesture of support and continuity for the future of the family-founded brand.