Paris Fashion Week saw the debut of Lanvin's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, a sophisticated homage to the vibrant spirit of the 1920s. Artistic Director Peter Copping, who took office as creative director in January 2025, presenting his second season, reinterpreted the house's heritage, presenting 60 silhouettes that resonated with the transformative energy of the Jazz Age. The collection seamlessly blends historical codes with a contemporary sensibility, emphasizing intricate details and refined femininity.
Designs showcased a distinct nod to the era, with high-collared jackets and elegant off-the-shoulder dresses taking center stage. A new line of handbags also debuted, complementing the garments. Notably, the intricate detailing on the back of garments, such as silk blouses adorned with buttons and bows, served as a subtle yet powerful echo of Alber Elbaz's distinctive aesthetic at Lanvin. Elbaz, who worked at Lanvin for 14 years, transformed the brand from a 'sleeping beauty' into a success story, significantly increasing sales and giving the brand new appeal. This attention to the unseen speaks to a deeper appreciation for craftsmanship and the quiet confidence it imparts.
The collection's atmospheric presentation was further enhanced by a musical selection – a remix of Visage's iconic 1980 track "Fade to Grey" – which evoked the era's distinctive mood. This sonic choice underscored the collection's thematic coherence, linking the visual artistry to a resonant auditory experience. Copping's vision for Lanvin SS26 is one of nuanced elegance, drawing inspiration from the enduring allure of the 1920s.
The collection's color palette, rich with various shades of blue, from airy sky tones to deep cerulean, was punctuated by strategic accents of bold colors like red and lime green, adding dynamic energy to the refined silhouettes. The influence of Art Deco, a movement synonymous with Jeanne Lanvin, who founded the fashion house in 1889, and a significant aspect of the 1920s, was palpable in the geometric motifs and the overall sophisticated aesthetic.
The meticulous construction, including linings intentionally placed on the exterior of jackets and dresses, celebrated the inherent processes of tailoring, offering a fresh perspective on garment construction. This approach, echoing Jeanne Lanvin's own design obsessions, highlights a commitment to detail from every angle, bridging the past and the present with a forward-looking perspective.
The collection also featured accessories that reinforced the house's iconic status, such as the 'Compagnon' handbag, presented in new leather finishes, and sharply pointed footwear adorned with ribbon motifs. The revival of silhouettes, such as the signature robe de style dress, reminiscent of Jeanne Lanvin's famous design, which itself was a reference to historical dresses of the 17th-18th centuries, reimagined with modern fluidity, exemplifies this delicate balance. The collection's embrace of historical resonance, combined with Copping's contemporary vision, solidifies Lanvin's position as a house that continues to evolve while honoring its profound legacy.