Milan Fashion Week witnessed the unveiling of Jil Sander's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, marking a significant new era for the fashion house under the directorial debut of Simone Bellotti. Bellotti, who previously held roles at Gucci and Bally, has presented a vision that honors Jil Sander's foundational minimalist aesthetic while introducing a contemporary sensibility. The show, held at the brand's historic headquarters in Piazza Castello, symbolized a return to the brand's core identity.
The collection showcased Bellotti's ability to blend classicism with modernity. Models, including Guinevere Van Seenus, who previously appeared in Jil Sander campaigns in the 1990s, opened the show in pieces reflecting the brand's enduring minimalist style, such as a white pencil skirt paired with a navy blue cropped sweater. Bellotti's designs emphasized clean lines, sharp cuts, and structured forms, with subtle textural variations that avoided overt nostalgia.
Key pieces included a striking glossy plastic dress with a cherry print, layered over a nude slip, and a jacket featuring uniquely cinched sleeves. The collection also incorporated vibrant colors like cherry red and ultramarine, integrated harmoniously to offer an optimistic interpretation of minimalism. Innovative details, such as strategic cut-outs and mixed-fabric insertions, further contributed to the collection's modern feel. Bellotti's approach focused on a subtle revelation of the body through design, balancing structure, tailoring, and classicism.
This new direction for Jil Sander is characterized by a refined approach to minimalism, moving away from more expressive elements seen in prior seasons. Bellotti's vision prioritizes clarity, restraint, and balance, drawing inspiration from the brand's heritage while looking towards the future. The collection has been met with largely positive reception, with critics commending its successful fusion of tradition and innovation, signaling a promising new trajectory for the brand. Bellotti's extensive experience, including his tenure at Bally, has equipped him with a deep understanding of materials and craftsmanship, evident in the collection's sophisticated execution. The brand's commitment to quality and timeless design, a hallmark of Jil Sander's legacy, remains a guiding principle.