Diesel, under the creative direction of Glenn Martens, presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection at Milan Fashion Week, emphasizing sustainability and raw beauty. The show, held at the brand's new headquarters, featured models amidst an installation of discarded clothing, highlighting Diesel's commitment to eco-conscious practices. The collection showcased innovative material treatments and dynamic silhouettes, which Martens described as "next level Diesel."
The collection explored deconstruction and wearability with an irreverent aesthetic. Key pieces included sharply tailored jackets with elaborate strap details and leather skirts with unfinished edges, reflecting a rebellious spirit. Designs incorporated frayed seams, trompe l'oeil prints, and extensive denim-on-denim styling, blending classic Diesel elements with contemporary innovation. A notable material was satin denim, crafted from recycled polyester and treated with laser technology for a distressed appearance. This fabric was used for biker jackets and apron dresses in vibrant hues. The denim underwent an internal bleaching process, creating an "X-ray" effect that revealed the garment's construction, while open-seamed knitwear and layered pieces added sculptural depth.
Diesel's presentation extended beyond a traditional runway, transforming Milan into an interactive fashion experience. The 55 looks were displayed in transparent, egg-shaped capsules across 18 diverse city locations, accessible via QR codes. This city-wide scavenger hunt aimed to democratize the fashion experience, with Martens stating it was "Diesel for the people." The central stage at Piazza Beccaria featured live entertainment, engaging the public. Over 5,000 attendees were welcomed, with many tickets distributed through public raffles, prioritizing students for inclusivity.
This collection underscores Diesel's dedication to sustainable practices, innovative design, and accessible fashion. The brand's commitment to upcycling addresses the fashion industry's significant textile waste, estimated at over 92 million tons globally per year. Upcycling transforms waste materials into higher-value products, combating waste and conserving resources. Diesel's initiative aligns with a growing movement towards a more circular and responsible fashion ecosystem. The brand's efforts have been recognized with the Circular Economy Award from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, acknowledging its leadership in sustainable and circular fashion practices. Since Glenn Martens took creative direction in 2020, Diesel has significantly increased its use of preferred fibers, with organic, recycled, or regenerative cotton rising from 3% to over 50%, demonstrating a tangible shift towards lower-impact production.