A new DNA test offers a quick and reliable way to distinguish between shahtoosh and pashmina, benefiting both artisans and conservation efforts.
The Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology (CCMB) in Hyderabad has developed a groundbreaking DNA diagnostic technology to identify shahtoosh and pashmina shawls. This innovative method extracts DNA from mammal hair shafts without damaging the shawl. This helps combat illegal shahtoosh trade and supports the Indian pashmina industry.
The Pashmina Exporters and Manufacturers Association approached CCMB in 2021 due to issues with existing shahtoosh detection methods. Current methods, like microscopy, are time-consuming and can lead to export delays. These delays significantly impacted pashmina exports, dropping from Rs 305 crore in 2018-19 to Rs 166 crore in 2021-22.
The new DNA test addresses these challenges by providing a foolproof and quick solution. It can be applied at any stage of the pashmina supply chain. The test identifies a unique primer, a specific DNA sequence, present in the chiru (Tibetan antelope), the source of shahtoosh wool. This allows for accurate identification of even a few strands of chiru hair.
The CCMB team overcame the challenge of extracting DNA from processed wool by focusing on mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA). While mtDNA is more difficult to analyze than nuclear DNA, the team successfully identified a chiru-specific primer. The test is now available at CCMB for a nominal fee, with plans to expand to Srinagar.
This DNA technology offers a significant advantage by providing a reliable and efficient method for identifying shahtoosh. This protects genuine pashmina producers from wrongful accusations and supports the preservation of endangered Tibetan antelopes. The technology also helps preserve the centuries-old tradition of pashmina weaving in Kashmir.