Ancient Kohl Makeup: Discovery Reveals Unique Ingredients Used by Iron Age Elites in Iran

Archaeologists have uncovered a unique kohl makeup recipe from an Iron Age burial site in northwestern Iran, offering insights into the beauty practices of the elite. The makeup, dating back to the 9th-7th centuries BC, was found at Kani Koter, near the eastern edge of the Assyrian Empire. Analysis of the kohl, a traditional eye cosmetic, revealed a previously unknown combination of ingredients: manganese oxides and natural graphite. This is the first known use of graphite in kohl, suggesting a local adaptation. The black color of the kohl was achieved using pyrolusite (a manganese-rich mineral) and graphite. Graphite provided a metallic sheen and a layered structure that allowed for good adhesion to the skin. The Zagros Mountains near Kani Koter contain both manganese and graphite, indicating that artisans utilized local resources. The cosmetic container was found in an elite tomb alongside silver jewelry, a bronze mirror, and ivory applicators. This, along with the care taken in the makeup's formulation, reflects the cultural importance of appearance among Iron Age elites, regardless of gender. This discovery enriches our understanding of personal care traditions during the Iron Age and highlights how ancient people expressed identity, beauty, and status through the use of makeup.